AFTER TEN YEARS, MARTIN MARGIELA MAKES A STATEMENT AT BELGIAN FASHION AWARDS

二零一八年正是设计师MARTIN MARGIELA离开品牌的第十个年头。近日,他获得了BELGIAN FASHION AWARDS颁发的评委大奖,一如以往没有现身领奖,取而代之写了一封信发表领奖感言,正如他以前透过传真寄出访问的一贯风格。在信中,他表达了自己对获奖的感受,也提到自己在二零零八年隐退的缘由——「我已经无法应对日益增长的压力和全球贸易需求的过度增长,我也对社交媒体过多的信息感到遗憾,这摧毁了『等待的快感』,消磨了一切惊喜的效果,而这对我来说极为重要。」不过,他也表示乐于见到一些新晋设计师对时装的创造力越来越感兴趣。这是他全面退出个人品牌以后对此事首次公开的回应。放眼当下,不难发现此刻时装业仍是朝着他当初无法承受的方向继续推进,时代的洪流滚滚,在这行业里的每个人是否还能独善其身?

信件全文如下:

“I am very touched and indeed honoured to receive this award, here in my native country.
Especially because I stepped down from fashion already ten years ago.
This evening, my memory goes back to 1983 when I received, here in Brussels, my very first recognition: the second prize of the ‘Golden Spindle’ contest, handed to me by the then only foreign jury member, Jean Paul Gaultier.
Many say that fashion has a short memory as it is obsessed by actuality and novelty. But some recent exhibitions about my work exemplified the opposite. Again, my homeland Belgium was the first to honour my work at the MOMU Antwerp, and then my adoptive city Paris followed with two more, at Palais Galliera and Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
A beautiful tribute to a period of hard work and dedication starting at early age and lasting for more than 30 years, until 2008 – the very year I felt that I could not cope any more with the worldwide increasing pressure and the overgrowing demands of trade. I also regretted the overdose of information carried by social media, destroying the 'thrill of wait' and cancelling every effect of surprise, so fundamental for me.
But today, I am happy to notice again a growing interest for creativity in fashion, by some upcoming designers.
This evening, I feel proud and fulfilled and I wish to thank wholeheartedly all of you for your precious support back then and today's recognition.”


text>kwan